🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.